Working with Resin
When working with any resin kits there are always a few golden rules that you should take care to follow:
If drilling or sanding resin, work in a well ventilated area with a face mask on so you do not breathe in the dust.
If cutting resin, use a sharp blade,smooth strokes and always cut away from yourself.
If scoring and snapping resin wear eye protection as this can generate sharp particles.
It is your responsibility to make sure that you always remember Safety First.
The resin that we use is a high quality, tough variety can be cut, drilled, sanded and even dropped onto a hard surface without risk of it shattering (we work over a concrete floor).
Preparing your Model
Before you start with a resin kit, it’s always a good idea to give it a quick wash in luke-warm water with a bit of detergent (washing-up liquid) in it. This will remove any residue that has been left on the model from the mould release agent used by the manufacturer.
It also gets rid of any resin powder, gritty bits and other stuff which may prevent your undercoat from going on smoothly.
How to straighten bent bits
If you charge straight in and try to unbend part of your model, then there is a better than average chance that you will snap the bit off that you are trying to straighten out.
The better bet is to place that section of the model in very hot water (just below boiling) for up to 30 seconds which should make the piece more pliable and allow you to gently it back into the correct alignment. Once correctly aligned, either hold the piece until it cools (this doesn’t take long) or place the item on a stable surface. Once cool, it should retain the position you have put it into.
Obviously using very hot water can be dangerous, so use sensible precautions not to scald yourself.
If you want to avoid using hot water, then placing the item in a fairly warm place such as an airing cupboard (NOT an oven), on a window ledge on a hot sunny day, or even (carefully) using a hair dryer can achieve the same effect.
Remember that if you let the model get too hot for too long, then you may get more than you bargain for as it could become rather more flexible than you would like, or even start to melt….
Under no circumstances apply direct heat (e.g. a naked flame) to the resin as it will melt in an uncontrolled fashion while giving off some very unpleasant fumes.
Painting your model
We always undercoat our models in black, normally using a spray primer, as that gets into all the various nooks and crannies of the model and gives your top coat something to adhere to.
In all cases, use a normal emulsion/latex paint brush (between 1″ – 1.5″ is good) rather than a brush you’d use for your miniatures – trust us, this works….
Allow each coat to dry fully before you apply the next.
|Model Type||Colours to use|
|Soil / Earth, Brown Rocks, Woodwork, Bone, Wooden Shingles||Base: Dark Chocolate
Middle: Milk Chocolate
|Concrete, Stonework (walls, chimneys, etc), Granite Rocks, Slate Roof tiles||Base: Dark Blue/Grey
Middle: Pale Blue/Grey
|Red Roof Tiles||Base: none
Middle: Pillarbox Red
|Foliage, Canvas Tents||Base: Dark Green
Top: Pale Green
Once you have undercoated your model, apply your basecoat colour using a very heavy-handed drybrush. The idea is to cover about 80-90% of the model in the colour, but still allow the colour of the undercoat to show through on the deepest grooves and crevices.
The middle colour is applied as a slightly heavy drybrush, so that around 50% of the model is covered. After you’ve put this colour on the model looks a bit of a mess – but stick with it…
The top colour should be applied as the finest, most gentle of drybrushes possible, so that only a very light dusting of this colour goes onto the model. This will highlight all the detail.
To paint bone, keep applying the top colour as a drybrush until you get the desired effect as this requires much more coverage.
Once your paint is dry, you can do any finishing touches, such as painting in windows, door knobs or fine details as well as applying static grass or flock if desired.